Wednesday, April 4, 2012

March 11th-18th Fishers Bay and a musical weekend

The wind made anchoring a challenge at Fishers Bay. Thankfully there was lots of room.  Fishers Bay anchorage at Guana Cay is a stones through away from Grabbers. Remember my Grabbers story?  We would now have an entire week to explore the area before the big Bearfoot concert weekend on the -17th &18th.  It is predicted that the anchorage would be full by Wednesday.  If so I hope the weather holds because high winds in a full anchorage makes for some interesting situations. We spent the week walking the beach, visiting the shops, enjoying happy hour with friends and completing a few jobs on the boat.  The weather settled down within 24 hours and remained pretty calm the entire week. On our dingy ride in to the concert I counted 53 boats anchored in the Bay!  We attended the free Friday afternoon Barefoot Man concert. His music resembles Jimmy Buffet type music but some of his songs are definitely a little more risque. All three levels at Nippers was packed with people. Trying to get near the band for a photo was difficult and the maze of people made getting to the bar an event! Tom and I and three other couples choose to sit on the beach in front of Nippers for most of the concert. Can you think of a better place to relax and listen to live music? Tom and I moved up to the upper deck level the last half hour to get a taste of the crowd. People watching was the best!  Saturday afternoon we watched Stone MaQuen perform at Grabbers. He played a mix of Bahamian Island music and American. It was great dance music. Again Tom and I started out on the beach in front of Grabbers.  One of the Chefs daughters  took to Tom and I. She was cute as a button and I enjoyed dancing in the sand with her. We moved from the beach to a large table for ten when other boaters we knew arrived.  We all got up and danced to Stones music on and off throughout the afternoon.  On Sunday afternoon Tom and I went back to Grabbers to listen to Brown Tip.  They are a rake and scrape band. That means they play canned music, sing and play the saws with a screw driver.  One of the groups members was an amazing dancer. He danced and played the saw, entertaining the crowd for hours.
                                                        Barefoot Man crowd
                                                            Stopne MaQuen
                                                     Dancing with one of Brown Tip group
Our group on the beach at Barefoot Man Concert

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

March 3-9th Wind - Waves - weather

After Ron and Natale left we took the opportunity of being in a marina to wash the salt off the boat, fill up the water tanks and take a nice long hot shower, the last for a while. We moved back to the anchorage area and settled in.  The winds kicked up that evening and were really strong the entire week. The temperature cooled down from the 80's it had been during Rons visit to 70-74. It was very cloudy all week as well. The boat was constantly swinging  and on Wednesday a storm blew through causing a few boats to drag anchor. We were pleased that we held throughout the storm. We went to shore for part of each day to get a break from the swing and chop but that meant preparing to get wet as well.  I had no trouble finding places to explore in town.  I tried to arrange a visit to a local school but had little success. Hoping to get that done before I leave the Bahamas.  On Friday the wind settled and the sky was clear. Friends from two other boats decided it was time for a change of scenery. Soon after they left we also felt a change was a great idea so we followed them over to Man-O-War.  We anchored outside the marina in a small cove. It was a great anchorage.  We dinked to shore and walked over a dune to the ocean side to walk along the beach. At low tide a sand bar appeared in the anchorage. We would all dink to the sand bar for happy hour. I found some wonderful "treasures" there. Lots of sea biscuits, beautiful shells and conch shells that had been thrown overboard after the conch was removed. We enjoyed Friday and Saturday at the anchorage.  On Sunday the winds blew in again and it was very uncomfortable. Laughter was bouncing and turning in half circles. Duel Dreams decided he was moving to a better protected anchorage.  After another hour of the bouncing we decided to move as well but there was a delay in our exit. One engine would'nt start. We started the second engine and the geni and after about 15 minutes, engine number 1 started and we were on our way. Now there is a new project added to the list. Why won't the engine start.
                                                           dinghy happy hour


If you look closely you can see the ocean on the other side of the island at this narrow point

Peanut actually followed us around in the shallows the entire afternoon then climbed in the boat to rest. Unfortunatley she chose the bucket that was filled with the shells I found.


Snorkling at Mermaid Reef

We, Ron, Natalie, Tom and I  headed back to Marsh Harbor and the marina Friday morning. The sea was a bit choppy but not uncomfortable. I was so glad that we had a great ride over on Thursday. Ron and Natalie really enjoyed watching the bottom for sea life on our way over but you couldn't see the bottom today because of the waves.  Once tied up at the marina we had some lunch and headed across the harbor by dingy to Marsh Harbor marina. We tied up at the dingy dock and walked down the road to a little bay where we snorkled out to the reef. Tom spotted a beautiful star fish which I took several photos of. We also saw lots of plants and fish but no colored coral to speak of.  It was recommended that we take bread to feed the fish but we forgot it. Once close to the reef it was apparent that the fish were expecting lunch. They swam around us and I actually had 5 or 6 needle nose swim up to my goggles. Ron found a few sea biscuits,(a biscuit shaped sand dollar), which I was very excited about.  Following a couple of hours of snorkling we walked back to the Marina and had a drink at the jib room. Ron and Natalies last dinner with us was lobster pieces with veggies grilled.  A great week of activities and fun. So glad they came. Saturday morning they headed out for the airport at 6:00.

To Many Nippers and Grabbers on Guana Cay

Wind had calmed, sun was bright so we took off for Guana Cay in the boat.  Ron and Natalie sunning on the bow pads, Tom and I at the helm. It was a nice smooth ride and Ron loved that he could see the bottom as if it were only a few feet away. Actually the water was only 6ft but we are getting pretty comfortable traveling around the islands in the shallow water. The guides tell you to learn the water by color as much as by chart and they are so right.  We tied up to a mooring ball in the harbor as we thought that might be a little less worry for our non boating relatives.  A short dingy to shore, tie up to the dock and climb up the ladder. Climbing up the wooden ladder was a bit of a challenge but luckily the tide was in and the ladder was plenty long for an easy start.
Nippers was our first stop. It is quite a bar, four decks with a pool that looks out over the ocean.  We enjoyed a few nipper frozen rum drinks sitting on the deck then moving to the chairs out on the beach.  Late afternoon we headed over to Grabbers to lay in the hammocks and loungers, have dinner and enjoy a few rum Grabbers. We had a fun filled day, warm sunny and clear skies. It was now dark and time to walk back to the dock for the short ride back to the mooring field.

Pop or as the Bahamians call it, soda is very expensive in the Bahamas and rum relatively cheap so the bartenders fill your glass 3/4 full of rum and 1/4 of the frozen concoction.  I think you know the result!!  I am sure we were a vision, four tipsy Americans wobbling down the street but on the other hand, it's probably not a new sight for the locals. Now comes the problem, it was now low tide and the ladder was not long enough to reach the top of the dingy. An added problem, it was DARK, adding another challenge to our decent on the ladder. Natalie successfully negotiated the ladder into the dingy even though there was a 2-3 ft drop from the last rung to the dinghy. We weren't sure why she went first since Tom would be driving and would have to pass her on the dinghy in the dark, but like I said we were not operating on all cylinders!   Tom went next, he wasn't so smooth. He disappeared down the ladder but what we heard next was a yell, a splash and then "I'm ok it's shallow". Ron and I looked at each other thinking what in heavens name just happened. It seems Tom fell ON Natalies head knocking her into the water. He remained in the dingy as she broke his fall. After the initial "are you ok"? we started to laugh.  I started down next with Peanut by the handle. I couldn't hold her and balance and down she went, luckily landing on the pile of towels and such in the dingy! Then me, falling from that last step into the bottom of the dingy on my butt. But at least I missed Natalie, Tom and Peanut.  Ron being the strongest was able to hold on and reach the dingy with one leg. So now we are all in the dingy laughing all the way back to the boat.  Thank goodness Natalie was a good sport about it.  Once on the boat we laughed some more. Natalie said all she could think about when she hit the water was "poop water",  and that was enough to give her super human strength to jump back in the dingy in record time. It seems earlier she asked where all the boaters empty their holding tanks. Tom explained that that due to a lack of services for that very thing boaters just dump in the water. I know yuk!

 On Friday morning a couple moored next to us said they could hear us laughing and that we must have had a good time. It will be one we remember for a very long time I'm sure!!
                                               
                           Enjoying one or two last Rum drinks at Grabbers while watching the sunset

                                                          Sunset from the beach at Grabbers
                                                          The pool at Grabbers
                                      Enjoying a few Grabbers rum drinks on the deck of Nippers
                                                    A view of Nippers beach
A view of Grabbers from the dinghy as we come to shore

Wed. Feb. 28th - Hope Town

On Wednesday Hope Town was our destination. Hope Town is on Elbow Cay, which is almost a straight shot across Abaco Sea from Marsh Harbor. The ferry to Hope Town was of course the one that requires a long walk. Ron and Natalie dropped us off with the rental car then took the car back. Unfortunately by the time they returned to the Ferry Dock we missed the ferry. We had a two hour wait for the next one so we went across the street to a little beach, relaxed and enjoyed our lunch.  I knew we were going to enjoy Hope Town as soon as the ferry entered the harbour. There was a lighthouse on one side of the harbor and neatly kept cottage homes with white picket fences lining the other side. The ferry dropped us off opposite of the lighthouse near a bar/restaurant called Captain Jacks.  We learned that Harbor Lodge had a very nice beach so we headed that way, enjoying the feel and look of the town the entire way.  The steps to the lodge were lined with beautiful flowers and opened up to a really nice patio that looked out over the marina. We were skeptical, this can't be open to the public! Several more steps took us through a covered walkway that opened to a very nice pool and a tiki bar near the steps to the beach.  Posted by the pool was a sign "public welcome". We were impressed! The tiki bar was open so we ordered a rum drink, of course, then turned towards the beach. There was a simultaneous "WOW" that was emitted from all of us at the same time  It was a vision only seen in a travel magazine. The bluest blue water you can imagine with waves gently lapping at the shore. The lodge had lounge chairs on the beach, so drink in hand, down we went to settle in the chairs enjoy the view and the music from the tiki bar. We spent most of the day on the beach before heading back to the ferry but on our way we stopped at Captain Jacks for the famous Goombye Smash rum drink. Good but potent!!!!  One day is definitely not enough time to spend here so you can bet Tom and I will be back to stay for a few days by boat.
Hope Town light house
                                                         Brother Ron
                                          outside  Decor at the Inn where we accessed the beach
                                         Taken on the balcony overlooking the beach at the Inn
                                                                     On the beach
View of the harbor

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Tues. Feb. 28thTouring Great Abaco Cay by Car

Today was supposed to be overcast with a good chance of rain. Ron wanted to rent a car to see the island so we were off. We headed South to Treasure Cay. It is at the center of the island and the beaches are said to be rated 4th in the world. I wasn't sure what we would see driving but was sure it would be interesting. There were small houses, lots of scrub area and no commerical to speak of.  The trip to Treasure Cay was about an hour. We pulled into the marina and checked it out, of course. We enjoyed our lunch at one of the tables in the Tiki Bar area then left to look for beach access. We found a little dead end road that had a car and a few golf carts at the end. There were several people sitting at their easels on a little sand dune so we parked and ventured that way. We had come upon a small art class of ladies. We had a great chat about the area then walked past them to the beach. The cloudy skys had cleared and the sun was bright and warm. The water was amazingly beautiful!  The blues and greens paired with the white sand was breathtaking. We spent some time walking on the beach and swimming. Then it was off the other way.  We decided to drive to Sandy Point, the northern tip of the island. The scenery was lots of scrub and forest. There were several side rodes but we did not venture off.  It was a very very long and boring drive. Sandy Point on the other hand was very interesting to say the least. There was a sign that said marina so we pulled in. The parking lot barely had enough room to turn around in, there was a large dog lying on top of an old picnic table, a building half boarded up with locals sitting outside and a small wooden dock! We didn't get out of the car! Ron spotted a tavern with two boarded up windows and bars on two others. He dared Tom, I'll go in if you do"! We didn't stop there either.  On our way out of town we stopped along the road to take a walk to the beach. There were shells galore, especially conch.  There was an area that looked as if it used to be a picnic shelter. Ron and Natalie were exploring it when a pick-up truck full of men drove by. Ron ran behind the bar and left Natalie standing. She then ran and hid with him.  The truck stopped and the men called out "Why you hiden man". Ron popped up and said we just playin. Their response was "Ok man as long as you havin fun". We laughed about that for two days!.Our last stop on the way back to Marsh Harbor was Petes Pub, another famous island hang out that also has a museum.  After three wrong turns we finally found the correct road, if you want to call it that. The road was down hill, narrow and eaten away from rain. The gal at the rental car place had told us we could'nt take the car to Hole in The Wall because of the road but never said a word about this road! By now it is getting dark and we are all hoping nothing will come the other way because there is nowhere for us to move to. We are also hoping we don't blow a tire in one of the ruts. We knew that Petes Pub was on the water and when we got to the point we could see water we thought we were ok. Then the road seemed to turn to grass and head for some houses. Tom yelled out the window at someone on their front porch, "Are we headed in the right direction for Petes Pub"?  She laughed, yeah, just up the road. I'm thinking, what road?  We did find Petes Pub, a bar on the sand with a large roof over it, tshirts of all kinds hanging from the rafters. We had one of their rum specialty drinks, walked around a bit and headed up the dreaded road back to the marina. Thankfully we did not have to pass anyone on our way out either!  We were to tired to even unload the car. We stopped in Snappas, had dinner then headed to the boat!
enjoying the beach at Treasure Cay
a view of the rocks down the beach
Petes Pub
Inside decor of Petes Pub

Monday, Feb. 27th, The beginning of a fun filled or should I say Rum filled week!!

I flew home the day after we arrived in Marsh Harbor to celebrate my grandsons first birthday and get my "grandma fix". I returned the 26th, the next Sunday with my younger brother Ron and his partner Natalie.  Ron had reserved a slip at Conch Inn and Marina for the week because he wasn't sure he could handle the constant movement that takes place when you anchor out. It was a nice surprise and a nice break for us.  On Sunday we settled in on the boat and went to Snappas for happy hour. We started our island/Cay hopping on Monday morning. The weather forecast was calling for choppy seas so we chose to take the ferry to Man-O-War Cay rather than the boat. Man-O-War is a small island and has been the center of boat building and repair for many years. Ron was excited about seeing the wooden boat building business but unfortunately we didn't find it but he did find a shop that makes fiberglass boats.  We spoke to two gentlemen who live on the island. They explained that they like the island the way it is, few tourists, quiet and peaceful.  Liqueur is not sold here but it was made clear that you are welcome to bring your own. We strolled the narrow streets that are only used by golf carts and bicycles, visited the two shops which sell clothing and carrier bags of every size made from sail cloth then walked over the hill to the ocean side to enjoy the beach which was beautiful. We enjoyed the lunch we brought with us hunted shells then headed back to the ferry dock. Tom was not excited about the long walk back to the marina so we took a cab.  The cabs in Marsh Harbor are well used mini vans, they line up at the ferry docks each morning and afternoon hoping to pick up tourists who are traveling to and from the islands(Cays). We grilled out on the boat and planned tomorrows activities. I have photos but cannot get them to load so will post them another time.
                                           A street big enough for Golf Carts at Man-O-War
                                                   Brother Ron & Natalie on the beach